Yves Henri Donat Matthieu Saint Laurent was born on August 1, 1936, in
Oran, Algeria. A giant in the world of fashion for more than four
decades, Saint Laurent set the stage for style during much of the 1960s
and 1970s. Unconventional and at times controversial, Saint Laurent
retired in 2002 and passed away in Paris after a short illness on June
1, 2008.
Early Years
Yves Henri Donat Matthieu Saint Laurent was born on August 1,
1936, in Oran, Algeria, to Charles and Lucienne Andrée
Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. He grew up in a villa by the Mediterranean with
his two younger sisters, Michelle and Brigitte. While his family was
relatively well off—his father was a lawyer and insurance broker who
owned a chain of cinemas—childhood for the future fashion icon was not
easy. Saint Laurent was not popular in school, and was often bullied by
schoolmates for appearing to be homosexual. As a consequence, Saint
Laurent was a nervous child, and sick nearly every day.
He found solace, however, in the world of fashion. He liked to create
intricate paper dolls, and by his early teen years he was designing
dresses for his mother and sisters. At the age of 17, a whole new world
opened up to Saint Laurent when his mother took him to Paris for a
meeting she'd arranged with Michael de Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue.
A year later, Saint Laurent, who had impressed de Brunhoff with his
drawings, moved to Paris and enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la
Couture, where his designs quickly gained notice. De Brunhoff also
introduced Saint Laurent to designer Christian Dior,
a giant in the fashion world. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later
recalled. "I couldn't speak in front of him. He taught me the basis of
my art. Whatever was to happen next, I never forgot the years I spent
at his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's style continued to
mature and gain still more notice.
Going His Own Way
In 1960 Saint Laurent was called back to his home country of
Algeria to fight for its independence. He managed to secure an exemption
based on health grounds, but when he returned to Paris, Saint Laurent
found that his job with Dior had disappeared. The news, at first, was
traumatic for the young, fragile designer. Then it became ugly, with
Saint Laurent successfully suing his former mentor for breach of
contract, and collecting £48,000.
The money and the freedom soon presented Saint Laurent with a unique
opportunity. In cooperation with his partner and lover, Pierre Berge,
the designer resolved to open his own fashion house. With the rise of
pop culture and a general yearning for original, fresh designs, Saint
Laurent's timing couldn't have been better.
Over the next two decades, Saint Laurent's designs sat atop the
fashion world. Models and actresses gushed over his creations. He
outfitted women in blazers and smoking jackets, and introduced attire
like the pea coat to the runway. His signature pieces also included the
sheer blouse and the jumpsuit.
Later Years
By the 1980s, Yves Saint Laurent was a true icon. He became
the first designer to have a retrospective on his work at the
Metropolitan Museum in New York City. Under the direction of Berge, who
continued to manage Saint Laurent's firm even though the two had broken
up in 1986, the fashion house flourished as a money making venture.
But Saint Laurent struggled. He became reclusive, and fought
addictions to alcohol and cocaine. Some in the fashion world complained
that the designer's work had grown stale.
In the early 1990s, Saint Laurent found firmer footing. His designs
were rediscovered by a fashion elite that had grown tired of the grunge
movement that dominated the runways. Saint Laurent, too, seemed to have
conquered his demons. By the end of the decade, with Saint Laurent
slowing down his work pace, he and Berge had sold the company they'd
started, netting the two men a fortune.
In January 2002, Saint Laurent participated in his final show and
then retired for good in Marrakech. Five years later, Saint Laurent's
imprint and importance on French culture was cemented when he was
appointed Grand Officer of the Legion d'honnerur by French President, Nicolas Sarkozy.
Yves Saint Laurent passed away in Paris on June 1, 2008 after a brief illness.
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